Basilio Rodriguez Grueso followed his heart (and his future wife) to Bellingham, Wash. -- a long way from his home in La Mancha. But his palate never left Spain, and so the former banker made an abrupt career change and founded Casa Ventura Imports two years ago.

Though young, start-up importers seem to flock to Western Washington like pigeons to the beach, Casa Ventura seems likely to win a dedicated following. Having tasted through a fair slice of Grueso's portfolio of small-
production wines from family-owned wineries in Spain, I am delighted to say that this is a lineup that offers both value and exceptional flavor at every price point.

Grueso, 32, comes from a family that appreciates good wine and good food. His father was a professional chef; his mother, a talented traditional cook. His everyday life in the village of El Bonillo included artisan breads, Manchego cheese, local wines, olive oils, saffron and more. Casa Ventura, named for the farmhouse his family has owned since the mid-1600s, capitalizes on all that experience.

Winemaking in Spain, Grueso believes, has now reached its moment of glory. Certainly, Spanish wines have never been more popular in this country, and there are quite a few importers who have been mining this lode long before Casa Ventura. But the magic of Grueso's portfolio is that it truly lives up to its mission statement.

"Not only must the wine be excellent," it reads, "but also the winery's philosophy must be based on non-aggressive agricultural and viticultural methods (e.g. sustainable, as close to organic as possible). They must also reflect the traditional winemaking methods of their region, especially by using traditional native varieties and/or winemaking processes."

So, along with outstanding examples of wines from familiar places such as Rioja, Rias Baixas, Priorat and Jumilla, Casa Ventura is bringing in an astonishing cava rosé (sparkling wine), made exclusively from the trepat grape; a varietal petit verdot from Méntrida; and some exquisite old vine blends, including century-old graciano.

A few of these wines are available on the East Coast, but many had not been seen in this country before Grueso began importing them. They are all distributed throughout Washington and Idaho by Vehrs. Suggested retail prices are listed with the tasting notes.

* Casa de Illana Joven 2006 Red ($10) -- A tempranillo, merlot and syrah blend from the newly designated region of Ribera del Jucar in eastern La Mancha. A big, luscious bowl of fruit.

* Casa de Illana Tradición 2006 Red ($12) -- Tempranillo, syrah and an indigenous grape called bobal are the components; this offers distinctive flavors of tobacco, licorice and spice.

* Castelo de Medina 2006 Verdejo ($12) -- This grassy, penetrating, peppery white wine will delight those who love sauvignon blanc, Pouilly Fumé or gruner veltliner.

* Lagar de Castelo 2006 Albariño ($13) -- A lovely white wine, precise and detailed, with notes of fresh herb and mint, and the pleasing saltiness of the region. Just 12 percent alcohol.

* Pinuaga Nature 2006 Tempranillo ($15) -- From 35-year-old vines, this fragrant wine conjures up Mediterranean herbs, tanned leather, moist earth and wild berries.

* Pinuaga 2004 Tempranillo ($25) -- The big brother to Pinuaga's Nature, this ramps up the alcohol (to 14.5 percent) and flavors to match. Dark and oaky, it rolls through red and black berries, forest undergrowth, mint and chocolate.

* Agustí Torelló Mata 2006 Rosé Brut Reserva ($23) -- Put this alongside a far more expensive rosé from Champagne and you won't believe the quality. Like drinking a cherry Creamsicle.

* Rejadorada Temple 2004 Tinta de Toro ($23) -- Pure tempranillo, this dense, dark, tannic wine demands a thick steak, and will easily wrestle it to the ground.

* Arrayán 2004 Petit Verdot ($29) -- I don't believe I've previously seen a varietal petit verdot from Spain, but this intense and concentrated wine will certainly appeal to those who love this tannic, herbal Bordeaux grape. Exotic spices, plums and raisins lead into ripe, dense and polished tannins.

* Mas Sinén 2004 Priorat ($48) -- For me, the finest red wines from Spain are coming from Priorat, but prices have gone through the roof. Want a bottle of the famous L'Ermita from Alvaro Palacios? The current release will set you back around $700. Try this instead.

Vines are "merely" 50 years old, organically grown and dense with the extreme minerality of the Llicorella slate. The rock, iodine, coffee and sappy berry flavors seem to go on for minutes after each sip. A glorious wine.

* Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines and Wineries The Essential Guide." He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.

Pick ofthe Week

* La Aldea 2005 Monastrell Red Wine, $9. From Jumilla, this super-ripe Spanish red packs amazing weight and flavor for the price. It opens with chocolate-covered raisins, layers in moist earth and ripe, red fruits and finishes with just a hint of bitterness around the tannic edges.