The increasing value of Washington wine

A recurring complaint about Washington wines -- perhaps the most frequent wine whine that I hear -- is that they are overpriced. When something that negative so stubbornly permeates the consumer-sphere, it demands attention. Why is this perception so commonplace? And is it true?

For those who think that "Washington value wine" is an oxymoron, I have a brief answer. Look for wines from Avery Lane, Columbia, Columbia Crest, Covey Run, Hogue Cellars, Magnificent Wine Company, Pacific Rim, Pine and Post, Six Prong, Snoqualmie and Waterbrook, to name some of the widely available, inexpensive and well-made offerings from this state. I would gladly put up almost anything from these producers against comparably priced wines from California. As a group, they would have more flavor, more focus and more varietal typicality than the $8 to $15 stuff from down south.

Next objection? These are all big, mostly corporate enterprises. What about the smaller wineries in Washington? Why are they so expensive?

Try out this list -- all family-owned enterprises offering at least some wines priced $16 and under -- Barnard Griffin, Charles Smith Wine Company, Dusted Valley, Giant Wine Company, Hedges, Kestrel Vintners, Mercer Estates, Milbrandt Vineyards, Olsen Estates and RiverAerie. Many of these names have been recently featured in this column.

Yes, many small, startup wineries set ambitious prices, and generally their reasons boil down to the cost of grapes, the cost of barrels, the cost of being an underfunded startup with several years of expenses before a single bottle is sold. In a few instances, ego enters into the pricing as well. A winemaker sees a neighbor charging $45 a bottle for syrah, and thinks, "Mine's as good; why shouldn't I get the same?"

Ultimately, the perception of value rests in the mind of the consumer. Value is not wedded to any particular price point. If $8 is all you wish to spend on a bottle of wine, then fair enough: Put up those Washington $8 gems against other wines at the same price. Do the same thing if your tipping point is $20 or $40 or more. Comparing apples to apples (grapes to grapes?), I believe that most of the time, Washington wines will prove to be the finest values in the country.

Admittedly, outside our borders, it's tougher to compete. Many parts of the world subsidize their vineyards and wine industries. In some, the vineyard land has been in the same family for generations. From such places you will occasionally find outstanding wines priced below what anyone can match here on the West Coast, where costs are considerably higher.

In that instance, I think it's fair to ask yourself, What is the value beyond price that Washington wines deliver? For me, they deliver unique flavors, distinct from anywhere else in the world. There is also the value of proximity. These wines are grown here, made here and matched to the foods and places we know and love to visit.

In that spirit, let me remind you that this is Washington Wine Month at state and contract liquor stores, and you'll find dozens of wines priced well under $10, some as low as $4. In addition, here are some excellent values from three wineries whose new releases are especially good values. Hogue wines are widely available; Chandler Reach and RiverAerie are smaller producers whose wines are most likely found in specialty wine shops.

Hogue Cellars

This venerable Yakima Valley winery has had its ups and downs since being sold by the Hogue family a few years ago. Recent releases have marked a welcome return to solid winemaking. These new releases are listed with full retail pricing, but you can find older vintages selling for far less during Washington Wine Month.

* Hogue 2007 Gewurztraminer ($10). Off-dry and fruity with peach, melon and citrus.

* Hogue 2007 Fumé Blanc ($10). Sharp grassy/grapefruity scents lead into a textural middle that hints at sage, melon, smoke and herb.

* Hogue 2007 Chardonnay ($10). Apples, peaches and pear fruit flavors in this full, almost fleshy chardonnay.

Chandler Reach

Just off the freeway between Prosser and Benton City, sharp-eyed travelers will be able to spot this classy, Tuscan villa winery. The understated and polished wines are drawn from the 42-acre estate vineyard. "Oak should be the garnish in a wine, not the main course," says owner Len Parris, and his wines express a wonderful purity of fruit.

* Chandler Reach NV 36 Red ($14). Look for the label with the 1936 Chevy one-ton flatbed truck (hint: The same truck is parked out in front of the winery). Cabernet sauvignon, merlot and malbec are in this gently fruity, all-purpose red.

* Chandler Reach 2005 Estate Select Monte Regalo Red ($22). A fine value in a high-end red blend.

* Chandler Reach 2005 Estate Select Merlot ($18). Potent and complex.

RiverAerie

RiverAerie is the second label of Bunnell Family Winery, and winemaker Ron Bunnell really puts great care and thought into the wines. New releases include the tart and spicy RiverAerie 2007 Rosé ($10) -- mostly syrah, finished dry, and loaded with lively strawberry fruit -- and the delightful RiverAerie 2006 Spring Creek Redd ($12). That's my Pick of the Week.

Pick of the Week

RiverAerie 2006 Spring Creek Redd, $12. This is the second time that Ron Bunnell has made this blend of roughly two-thirds cabernet sauvignon, the rest a mix of syrah, petite sirah and mourvèdre. The grapes come together harmoniously, and the wine has a core of sweet black cherry and blue plum fruit. The name Redd is the term for a salmon nest, where the eggs are laid. Firm acids and light tannins frame the fruit nicely, with no excessive herbal flavors.

* Paul Gregutt's column appears weekly. He can be reached at wine@seattletimes.com.

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