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YAKIMA -- Passing from a painful period of controversy and confrontations, the Klickitat Trail near Goldendale now seems on a smoother path to acceptance and enjoyment. Although armed opponents once challenged the right of public access to the 31-mile rail trail route, today visitors seem unlikely to face violent opposition.

We recently enjoyed a cheerful hike on the
13-mile section of the Klickitat Trail through remote Swale Canyon. The previous fears of encountering angry landowners seemed far away as we sauntered through extensive fields of flowering pungent desert parsley. Accompanied by bird song and the tumbling waters of nearby Swale Creek, we reveled in the sunny spring weather.

"The controversy hasn't disappeared, but it's dissipating," said Jim Denton, a member of the Klickitat Trail Conservancy and co-leader of the hike. "It's been a long, slow battle, but we're over the hump now."

This time of year is perfect for hiking or biking the Klickitat Trail. Wildflowers are blooming, the seasonal flow of Swale Creek flows downhill along the trail, and wildlife can be spotted near the route. Marmots, bobcat, deer, bear, and cougar have been viewed along the Klickitat Trail, according to Denton and hike co-leader Bev Linde. Shortly after we started our late-April hike from the Harms Trailhead near Centerville, we were captivated by the antics of a weasel at the first trestle crossing of Swale Creek.

"It's so exciting," Linde said of the trail project. "The dream just goes on and on."

Her remarks were prompted by recent purchase of private land adjacent to the trail corridor by the state Department of Fish and Wildlife. Linde also expressed optimism that a trail connection might be made to the Dalles Mountain Ranch, state park property south of the Klickitat Trail.

Our day hike through Swale Canyon provided more than sufficient enjoyment and challenge. Although the grade is gentle, the distance covered and the often rough footing of rock ballast does take its toll before the end of the day.

"It seems to get longer and longer near the end," Linde said. "It seems like you have logs at the end of your legs by the time you get to the car."

Other potential challenges include ticks and rattlesnakes. Several members of our group removed ticks discovered along the way. No snakes were seen the day we traveled through Swale Canyon, but Denton said they do lie out in the sun across the trail. On his dozen or so trips through the canyon he said he's maybe seen three rattlesnakes.

Our seven-hour hike was accomplished with the use of a car shuttle. No other public access for vehicles exists along the 13-mile route. So hikers or bikers traveling this part of the trail should come prepared with proper gear, including plenty of water and sun protection, not to mention sturdy boots for hikers.

On our hike we encountered two sets of mountain bikers and one group of hikers who started at the Harms Trail access, went three miles on the trail and then retraced the route back to their car.

An additional challenge for travelers of the rail trail is crossing the trestles. There are about five long trestles and four shorter ones along the Swale Canyon route. Only the first one near the Harms Trailhead has planking added. Care should be taken when walking across the railroad ties at these trestle crossings of Swale Creek

The Swale Canyon section of the Klickitat Trail is typically closed from July through September due to fire danger, Denton said. The actual dates of the closure vary from year to year depending on conditions. However, these months of the year are less accommodating to hikers anyway due to the high temperatures. Plus, the creek dries up and the wildflowers die off.

Those visiting the Harms Trailhead of the Klickitat Trail have two options. One is to hike downstream and the other is to head upstream, since the route continues for another two miles or so. Those lacking the energy or time to complete the entire Swale Canyon section can still experience much of the trail scenery heading either direction or doing pieces of both.

As we headed down the trail the sense of isolation increased as the hillsides grew steeper and the canyon deepened. Only in the last few miles did we encounter many signs of human presence as we passed a series of cabins and trailers. By this point we were in pine forest rather than grasslands and the trail itself seemed more of a roadway than a railbed.

The Swale Canyon section of the trail holds a certain appeal due to its separation from highway traffic and most signs of human habitation. However, many visitors also enjoy portions of the trail which actually border the Klickitat River, a nationally designated wild and scenic river. At times the route borders Highway 142 and at other points follows the opposite side of the river.

In 1903, the railway linking Lyle and Goldendale was built by the Spokane, Portland and Seattle Railroad. The branch line was active until the 1980s. It was abandoned in 1992 and the right-of-way was purchased in the following year by the national Rails-to-Trails Conservancy. In 1994, ownership was transferred to Washington State Parks.

Local opposition nearly derailed the trail effort, but public support retained the trail access. In 2003, the Klickitat Trail Conservancy was formed; both Denton and Linde sit on its board, volunteer to lead hikes on along the trail and also take part in work parties to maintain and improve trail access. Several hundred members belong to the Klickitat Trail Conservancy, Denton said, but a much smaller number are actually active in its efforts.

The information contained in this article about the trail's history is contained in a conservancy brochure which also includes a map, photographs, and details on trail access points. Information about the trail and the conservancy can be obtained online at www.klickitat-trail.org. The site also gives details on outings planned by the group, which is how we learned about the hike through Swale Canyon.

As news of the Klickitat Trail spreads, the future of the route seems bright. The conservancy supporting this trail is "on the right track" as it promotes public access to a beautiful region of southern Washington.

* Ron Graham, an elementary school teacher and native of the Yakima Valley, is an avid outdoorsman who has hiked throughout the Pacific Northwest.

WHAT: Hike through Swale Canyon on the Klickitat Trail.

WHERE: near Centerville south of Goldendale.

HOW: Take Highway 97 south from Yakima about 77 miles to the Centerville Highway. Turn right and drive west on the highway about 12.5 miles to a right turn on Harms Road. In just less than half a mile, cross the bridge over Swale Creek and park along the trailhead on either side of the road. A porta potty is available there.