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It's perhaps no more than a curious coincidence, but have you noticed that some of the best Washington wines are being made in Oregon? Winemakers Peter Rosback (Sineann), Andrew Rich (Andrew Rich Wines) and David O'Reilly (Owen Roe) -- though by no means the only Oregonians to mine the Washington mother lode -- consistently produce thrilling wines from this state's vines.

Sineann's Celilo Vineyard Gewurztraminer ($18) is always a standout; the 2006 offers stone fruits, refreshing acids and a streak of licorice. Peter Rosback's red wines include a 2006 Champoux Vineyard Merlot ($36) -- not shy at 15 percent alcohol -- that wraps its super-ripe cherry/berry fruit in rich layers of coffee, toffee and smoke. Better still is his Sineann 2006 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc ($48) that captures the grape's earthy, herbal elements while keeping the fruit tight and muscular.

Best of all is Sineann's 2006 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($48). Chateau Ste. Michelle owns this 35-year-old vineyard, and recently decided to begin offering Cold Creek grapes to a few select winemakers. Rosback has imprinted his definitive, high-impact style on the wine, while retaining the best characteristics of the Cold Creek site. Still tight and muscular, this world-class cabernet captures the dense mix of earth, herb, bark, currant, berry and mineral that marks Cold Creek as unique.

Andrew Rich, who labels himself a "vinarchist," makes his Washington wines at the Winemakers' Studio in Carlton, Ore. Like Rosback, he scours the Columbia Valley for grapes, with a particular interest in Rhone varieties. Among his recent releases, I especially enjoyed the 2006 Roussanne ($20), a creamy, luscious panorama of apricots, tropical fruits and nutmeg.

Rich draws much of his fruit from Red Mountain's Ciel du Cheval vineyard. His Andrew Rich 2005 Ciel du Cheval Grenache ($25) makes most domestic versions seem grapey and simple by comparison. Here are beautifully mixed fruit flavors, including plums, currants and berries, finishing with a trail of subtle, chocolatey spice.

Other gems: the Andrew Rich 2005 Mésalliance Red, a powerful blend of merlot, cabernet franc and syrah; the Andrew Rich 2005 Ciel du Cheval Petit Verdot ($40), dark, tannic and muscular; and a pair of outstanding syrahs.

The Andrew Rich 2005 Les Vignes En Face Syrah ($45) is a 50/50 blend of Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval barrels, jam-packed with blueberry, blackberry and black cherry fruit, backed with barrel flavors of smoke, tar and licorice.

The other Andrew Rich 2005 Syrah ($24) is a young, juicy, assertive wine that matches its blackberry and black cherry fruit against a strong streak of smoky licorice.

Also worth noting is the Andrew Rich 2005 Coup d'Etat Red ($25), a tangy blend with fresh, sharp, briskly acidic flavors of tart raspberries.

Saving the best news for last, I sat down recently with David O'Reilly and learned about his new Washington-based winery and vineyard project. For the past decade, O'Reilly has been making collectible (dare I say cult) wines under the Owen Roe label, focusing on premium Yakima Valley vineyards. He also makes some 50,000 cases of value-priced wines under the O'Reilly and Sharecropper labels.

O'Reilly, a native of Northern Ireland who holds a degree in medieval philosophy from Thomas Aquinas College, has purchased the Outlook vineyard and the Apex winery facility in Sunnyside. Apart from his own wines, he plans to custom crush for a variety of projects, including a lineup of wines bottled in old-fashioned, quart-size milk jugs.

O'Reilly is the sort of gifted winemaker who has the ability to showcase what is best and most distinctive about Yakima Valley fruit. "There's nothing magical going on," he insists. "We punch down by hand, we don't pump the must, we rack by gravity. Every grape will show the best aspect it has if it's grown in the right place."

Current Owen Roe releases are as good as anything he's ever done. From DuBrul vineyard fruit there is the opulently rich Owen Roe 2006 Riesling ($21), a nectarlike mix of honey, wildflower, peach and apricot. Its companion is the fleshy, barrel-fermented Owen Roe 2006 Chardonnay ($28), graceful and refined, with a hint of caramel in the extended finish.

Owen Roe's DuBrul Vineyard reds include the 2005 Merlot ($45) and 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($60).

The merlot -- 100 percent varietal -- is sweet and pure, a mélange of cherries, coffee and caramel. The Yakima Valley cabernet matches cassis and cherry fruit with streaks of tobacco and hints of mint, herb and earth.

Among the less expensive Washington reds, look for the 2006 Sharecropper's Cabernet Sauvignon ($18), the 2006 Owen Roe Sinister Hand ($24) and the 2006 Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah ($24).

Pick of the Week

O'Reilly's 2006 Oregon Pinot Noir, $15. Much as I love O'Reilly's Washington wines, it would be foolish to ignore this exceptional Oregon bottling. O'Reilly's may well be the best value pinot noir made in Oregon, year in and year out. It's firm and full-bodied, perfectly ripe, with lovely spices that range from pepper to cinnamon and allspice. The fruit lingers in the midpalate, round and tangy, with flavors of cherry and plum.

* Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines and Wineries The Essential Guide." He can be reached at wine@seattletimes.com.