On the Menu -- Tony's Big Cheese Pizza

"Tony's" might possibly be the single most common name for a pizza joint in the world. From the outside -- or even from the inside -- Tony's Big Cheese Pizza looks like just a local effort at mimicking Little Caesar's: cheap, tasteless pizzas to go. Easy to ignore in a culture full of pizza chains screaming their deals at us.

But appearances can be deceiving.

Nestled next to RiteAid at 24th Avenue and Nob Hill Boulevard, Tony's Big Cheese Pizza has been open in Yakima since 1971, according to the restaurant's takeout menu. Cheap, it is -- a large pepperoni costs only $4.99 for carryout -- but tasteless it's not.

Where the national cheap-pizza to-go chain restaurant offers pies so grease-laden you could ring them out, Tony's keeps quality high and dripping fat low while still being speedy.

I'd say the quality is comparable to any of the other sit-down chain pizza places in town. And the prices are much better.

While the focus at Tony's might be on grab-it-and-go, the restaurant also offers a small dining room for people who want to mingle over their box. The menu includes typical pizza offerings -- anywhere from a 6-inch personal pie up to an 18-inch giant pizza, ranging in price from $2.59 for one topping to $18.99 for an Ultimate giant pizza. You can also grab salads (mostly lettuce), breadsticks or cheese bread, chicken wings, calzones and pop. Tony's also has a variety of crusts, including stuffed, deep dish and flavored.

My husband and I recently got two two-topping personal pizzas, two small salads, two large drinks and a 10-piece cheese bread for under $20. It was the yummiest cheap meal I've had in a long time.

The crust was crispy and well seasoned and the toppings were fresh. The cheesy bread was really great, too, although the cup of marinara sauce served with it was unfortunately cold.

Portions were good -- the small tossed salad was pretty big for $2.39, even if it was mostly lettuce -- and we left full without feeling like we'd eaten something really unhealthy.

All in all, if you've been writing off Tony's Big Cheese Pizza as a big waste of time, give it another look. You'll find friendly service, great prices and pizza that easily beats any other chain place in town.

Tony's Big Cheese Pizza

Location: 2204 W. Nob Hill Blvd., Suite C.

Phone: 509-575-7977

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., carry out, dine in or delivery.