Good things happening at Tieton Farm and Creamery

TIETON -- Lori and Ruth Babcock lived an enviable life.

They had well-paying jobs in the high-tech industry. Their Seattle home was close to trendy restaurants and friends. And with Ruth's daughter going off to college, they'd soon have their place all to themselves.

But instead of using that freedom to take a vacation, the Babcocks moved to Tieton this spring to raise livestock and make cheese.

"We loved what we were doing in our spare time," said Ruth, 52. "So we asked ourselves, 'What if we could actually do what we love for a living?"

Their products, sold under the name Tieton Farm & Creamery, are available in such places as Deep Sea Deli and Gilbert Cellars in Yakima, La Medusa and Lark restaurants in Seattle and PCC Natural Markets in Western Washington, the largest consumer-owned natural food retail
cooperative in the United States.

Within the next two years, the Babcocks hope to expand their business by opening a bed and breakfast powered by geothermal and solar energy.

"It dawned on us that this is what we wanted to do," said Lori, 51. "When I started working with my hands, on a product, it was so much more rewarding than typing on a piece of plastic all day."

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The decision to uproot their lives happened gradually, especially since the couple had resided in Seattle for nearly 20 years.

In 2002, Ruth -- who had long owned the legal maximum of five chickens -- began to accumulate additional chickens and goats and keep them on her cousin's property in Bellevue, Wash. In 2004, Lori learned how to make cheese, and a year later, the two began looking for land on which to farm and garden.

Their goal was to build a bed and breakfast, feeding their guests quality food from the livestock they raise and the produce they grow. But everything they found either banned livestock or was too expensive -- until they discovered Tieton.

They first heard of the small town of 1,200 people while at a dinner party at Lark. They were talking about their difficulty finding suitable land with best-selling author Michael Pollan, who was in Seattle for a book signing.

A patron involved in Tieton's revitalization overheard the conversation and recommended the town. At first, the Babcocks dismissed the idea, believing Tieton was too hot and dry.

"Then we were introduced to the word 'irrigation' and things felt so much better," Lori joked. "It became obvious Tieton was a fit."

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The town embraced their vision and welcomed them with open arms, the Babcocks said. In 2008, they bought 21 acres, and the place soon began feeling like home.

Mayor Stan Hall, for one, was glad to take the Babcocks into his fold. He said the ladies are country people at heart and are a perfect fit for the community.

"They are very friendly, knowledgeable and ambitious," he said. "If you like goat cheese, you won't find any better."

The couple had hoped to start building their bed and breakfast right away, but because of the banking crisis, their financing has been delayed. In the meantime, the Babcocks readied the land.

They bought and moved dozens of turkeys, chickens and ducks to the farmstead, along with a mixture of 55 goats, sheep, pigs and cows. The animals eat feed grown on the property, and their waste is used for compost in the garden. Ruth, who oversees the livestock and garden, does not use pesticides or sprays.

"The goal is to work with nature and create the best forage with your animal," said Ruth, whose knowledge of farming came from books and networking. "There's an awful lot to learn."

The Babcocks also erected a temporary power pole, recovered an abandoned irrigation system and built a creamery and garage area. They're now living in an RV on the property, but plan to rent a house in Yakima.

"Other people started to do it, to write about it," Ruth said about sustainable living. "It just caught my interest. It's all exciting. I love it."

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Lori, a classically trained chef, began making cheese this spring with milk from the sheep and Nubian goats she and Ruth own. She made a business plan, decided on her market, and went to work.

All of her artisanal cheeses -- including fresh chévre, feta and provolone -- are made in small batches. Ruth milks the goats once or twice a day, and Lori puts the milk to immediate use. Each week, she produces an average of 45 to 60 pounds of cheese.

When complete, the cheese costs an average of $8 for four ounces, which Lori sells at the Tieton and Yakima farmers markets. Everything she makes gets sold, she said.

"It takes a lot of time, a lot of work, but it's pleasurable work," Lori said. "I wake up excited to do cheese duties day by day."

So far, the response to Lori's cheeses has been positive.

Leon Bloom, deli merchandiser for PCC in Seattle, said Tieton Farm & Creamery represents the type of business PCC supports in that the cheese is made on site by a small producer and the animals are primarily grass fed.

"It's quite popular. ... It's definitely surpassed our expectations," Bloom said about the cheeses. "It's nice to have something so fresh in the store."

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What's helped the Babcocks transition into their new lifestyle has been the support from family and friends -- such as Lisa Higley, the couple's former Seattle neighbor. Higley said the Babcocks make ideal business partners. They're communicative, kind toward one another and are passionate about their work.

"Ruth can grow the food and Lori can cook it. It's a great combination," she said. "It couldn't be more perfect for their skills."

Karen Babcock, Ruth's cousin, agrees. She said Lori and Ruth are an enthusiastic pair who care deeply about sustainable agriculture. Lori is the chatty one while Ruth is on the quiet side, but as partners, they work.

"They are kind of fun to watch," Karen said. "They get so enthused by how beautiful the garlic is, how wonderful the meat tastes. It's nice to feel good about the food you're eating."

The cheese business is bringing in revenue until the Babcocks open their bed and breakfast in the next year or two.

They envision having three to five guest rooms. Lori will make lavish breakfasts and the occasional dinner, and Ruth will give farm tours. They also plan to create walking paths, plant a small orchard and cook on an outdoor grill. Their farm may even become a wedding destination, they said.

"I don't think we could have picked a better spot," Lori said. "There is a great support network here."

* Erin Snelgrove can be reached at 509-577-7684 or esnelgrove@yakimaherald.com.