On the menu -- Second Street Grill

YAKIMA, Wash. — It's easy to refer to the Second Street Grill as "the new Pete's."

But you'll forget about the former nightclub the moment you step through the door. The look of the restaurant is modern with a touch of vintage, its original brick walls decorated with black and white Yakima Valley historical photos. Everything else is sleek, from dark wood tables to leather couches in the bar.

The restaurant already is quite popular. Go on a Saturday night and you'll be waiting 30 to 40 minutes for a table. (If you don't want to wait, try to grab a seat at the circular bar, complete with flat-panel televisions and creative libations.)

As for the food, it's American classic with a touch of Asian. You can order sushi, tempura and wonton soup, but you can also order pasta, hamburgers or a big juicy steak.

A key strength of the restaurant is its broad range of prices. If you're on a budget, you can get a sandwich for less than $10. But if you have money to burn, you can get a steak for $25 or $30.

The food was pretty good, although there were a few misses. The margherita pizza needed more flavor, for instance. (Not surprising, considering that both basil and tomatoes, the two key ingredients, are out of season.)

The hit dish: Tuscan Nachos, pasta chips topped with a variety of yummy ingredients including tomatoes, olives, sausage, peppercinis and two types of cheese. It's a great after-work happy hour snack.

To wash it down, the restaurant has a generous number of microbrews on tap, including some from Yakima Craft Brewing, a local brewery that opened its doors early last year. There are plenty of local wines and a variety of cocktails to choose from.

The service is decent, but there are a few kinks to work out. Service during crowded times tends to be a bit slow, and it's clear the servers are still getting used to working the tables.

It's obvious that locals are hankering for this type of restaurant. As long as it makes the necessary adjustments in its menu and service, it's on the way to becoming a Yakima Valley favorite.

RECOMMENDED APPETIZER: As mentioned, Tuscan Nachos ($11). Homemade pasta chips are topped with sausage, tomatoes, peppercinis, black olives, green onions and a two-cheese mix. It's a new twist on an old favorite that is worth blowing a diet for.

RECOMMENDED ENTREE (frugal option): Italian Sausage Pomodoro ($11). A mix of angel hair pasta, tomatoes, zucchini and sausage. The dish comes with soup or salad and garlic bread. It's quite filling and the price won't break your dining budget.

RECOMMENDED ENTREE (not-so-frugal option): Filet Mignon ($28-$35). The steak melts in your mouth, especially if topped with blue cheese butter. It can also be topped with sautéed mushrooms for an extra $2 and grilled shrimp for an extra $4.

* The Second Street Grill is located at 28 N. Second St. in Yakima. Hours are 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays (with a special late-night menu from 11 p.m. to 2 a.m.). Call 469-1486 or visit www.secondstreetgrill.com.